Experience: Birch and Bay in Wakefield

"Somebody knows how to order!” was the gist of what my server bellowed as he ceremoniously delivered my lunch on a carved wooden platter. A collective gasp was heard ‘round the table, followed by murmurs of “I didn’t even see that!”

When presented with any menu, my eyes automatically scan the text in search of two words: lobster roll, the quintessential seaside sandwich of lobster meat – served cold mixed with mayonnaise or warm with butter – on a grilled roll. At Birch and Bay in Wakefield, the newest joint opened by husband-and-wife restaurateurs John and Shannon Brito, not only is there a lobster roll, but you can make it a BLT. Which I did.

Found in the handhelds section of the menu, the lobster roll is available in the traditional cold style or hot and buttered – which is a nice fuss-free (or the laziest) way to enjoy lobster, whether you eat the bun or not. Both versions are served at Birch and Bay on a grilled brioche roll, but leveled-up as a BLT, the dressed lobster, lettuce, tomato, and bacon are assembled between two slices of thick and toasty white bread; the sandwich arrives cut in two, stacked, and barely held together by a bamboo-knot pick skewer. Pickles and French fries are standard accoutrements for pausing between each scrumptious bite.

But first, clam chowder. I’m a big fan of the New England style served at sister restaurant Wickford on the Water, so I knew my meal must begin with a bowl. Creamy, thick, loaded with clams, and garnished with fresh herbs, you can’t go wrong by ordering the hearty northeastern soup at a place that bills itself as a coastal kitchen. Other starters enjoyed by the table were crispy fried green tomatoes served with a zesty remoulade sauce, and a cheesy dip version of clams casino, accompanied by celery sticks and garlic crostini – sturdy implements for digging through the breadcrumbs and crispy bacon bits to get to the gooey assemblage.

There are wine and beer lists, and delicious specialty cocktails with unexpected ingredients (black fig vodka and vanilla simple syrup). The children’s menu features kiddie all-stars like pasta with butter, grilled cheese, fish sticks, and more, all served with fries or apple slices. And, save room for dessert. My warm fruit crisp of berries beneath cinnamon crumble arrived in a compote with a heaping ball of vanilla ice cream and a tall dollop of whipped cream; presented on blue pottery with a dusting of powdered sugar, it was like a happy snow day on a plate.

The restaurant, which opened in mid-November, is comfy and casual, with a nautical-inspired design of blue-and-white candy stripes that appears on everything from round coasters and linen napkins to the custom painted wall art that directs “this way to the roofdeck,” along the stairwell, and the landing wall that signals, “Hoist the anchors… you’re officially on vacation.” Blue glasses and serveware, hammered silver utensils, and artwork add to the seacoast atmosphere. My lunch left me satisfied and wanting to return for brunch or dinner, which I should do soon, before this new kid on the block becomes the place to be when the temps warm up and the roofdeck opens.

Birch and Bay

323 Main Street, Wakefield

284-1200 • BirchAndBayRI.com