Aaron Laipply and James Wayman just can’t help themselves. The duo shares a passion for sustainability, local sourcing, and organically grown ingredients, which have become the cornerstones of the successful restaurants they’ve opened, including Nana’s Bakery and Pizza, with locations in Mystic and Westerly. So when a coveted space at the entry to downtown Westerly became available, they couldn’t resist debuting another restaurant in the town’s booming dining scene: River Bar.
As it goes in small cities, buzz of a new eatery at the picturesque building on the banks of the Pawcatuck River arose shortly after the former Bridge Restaurant shut its doors at the beginning of the year. The boxy brick building has been home to a handful of restaurants over the decades, but its history dates back to circa 1900, when it served as a hydropower plant, using a water wheel to power nearby mills. Today, it’s the building’s future, not its past, that’s luring curious palates and casual diners alike.
Anyone familiar with chef/co-owner James Wayman’s highly-lauded career – which includes studying at Johnson & Wales University and recognition by The New York Times, Esquire, Travel + Leisure, and Saveur, among others – knows his mastery of New England coastal cuisine and whole animal butchery; he also co-owned the former Grass & Bone Butcher Shop in Mystic, a highly praised restaurant-butcher hybrid. As such, River Bar’s seasonally driven menu is derived from Wayman’s history of sourcing animals and produce from small family farms. Fish and shellfish also come from nearby docks, and his personal passion for foraging for wild plants and mushrooms sometimes inspires an unexpected dish.
“It all ties right in with our local sourcing and just wanting to cook and serve food that’s sustainable. You buy a whole animal, and if you know what to do with it, nothing’s going to waste,” he says. “The other fun thing about whole animals is they’re kind of made to cook with, right? You have bones to make stock. You have tougher cuts that are used for long, slow cooking. You have more tender ones for fast cooking. So there’s a lot of options, and if you’re creative, a lot of ways to create interest in food.”
When they were conceptualizing the “seafood-focused global comfort food” menu, carried out by executive chef Kevin English, Wayman and Laipply were intentional about paying homage to Rhode Island with ample representation of Ocean State flavor. Oysters from Ninigret Nectars and 401 Oysters are just some examples of the briny bivalves on the raw bar menu, the clam chowder with local chopped clams gets its savoriness from salt pork from Wild Harmony Farm in Exeter, locally landed haddock is used for fish and chips, the clam cakes and calamari are local, and the scallops are from Stonington, just across the river, as are mushrooms from Seacoast Mushrooms and cheese from Mystic Cheese Co. And that’s just the beginning.
For bread service, well, that’s when Nana’s comes in, with the bakery’s legendary loaves at the center of the Sourdough Plate served with roasted garlic butter or charred chili blue cheese butter, and there’s the perfectly crumbly cornbread with hot honey butter, either of which are guaranteed to get your meal off to the right start.
Local steak and chicken dishes round out the menu. Preparations can change depending on the season, but Wayman also caters to vegetarians and vegans, not to appease, but to impress. The Exotic Mushroom Poke Bowl has been a big hit, featuring shoyu-dressed Seacoast Mushrooms, lime, scallion, sesame, chili, local vegetables, and jasmine rice. The Sweet Potato Red Curry and the Miso Portobello Burger are also veggie-forward favorites. At the bar, signature cocktails, a well-curated wine list, and a predominantly regional beer list cover just about every taste.
River Bar’s vibe is decidedly welcoming: stylish with a sense of place, and multi-layered. Renovations throughout the interior reveal a warm indoor bar area and dining space with natural wood detail throughout, exposed beams, and an exposed brick wall juxtaposed by a lighter, brighter dining area with wainscoting and a whimsical wallcovering. Though most areas aim to capture the river view, the outdoor covered dining patio is where the river takes center stage, serenading diners as it flows along to the bay.
“From the time we started talking about it, Aaron and I just wanted it to be fun,” says Wayman. “We want it to be fun and accessible to anybody.”
37 Main Street, Westerly
401-561-7050
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