A recent visit to Narragansett’s new food hall yielded people-watching almost as varied and enjoyable as the culinary options. There was seven-year-old Monica from North Kingstown who lamented, “Mom! That’s so gross! How can you eat that?” of her parents’ choice of oysters for an appetizer. She ripped off a piece of cheese pizza and tossed a small beanbag toward the cornhole board on the patio, missing it by an inch. Next to the family, four 20-somethings, fresh from Narragansett Town Beach and each with a fat burger in front of them, laughed loudly as they decided what shots to order from the expansive drinks menu. Nearby, a baseball game aired on a mounted TV, and music blared from a speaker, but both were hard to hear over the din of this young, exuberant crowd. It was a Monday night, and Boon Street Market was booming.
This building, home to the new food hall that opened in June, is used to welcoming bustling crowds of visitors. When it was first constructed in 1896, it served as a passenger depot for the Narragansett Pier Railroad until the 1960s. Located just a handful of blocks from the Ocean Road seawall, it was designed by a Woonsocket architect using Westerly granite and has weathered many storms through the years, including the hurricanes of 1938 and 1954. Enter Lindsay and Christina Holmes, who bought the property four years ago and have executed a new creative use for it – a food hall.
Six food concepts include burgers, Mexican fare, pizza, sandwiches, a raw bar, and ramen. There are also two full bars with overhead TV screens for your sports viewing pleasure. The concept is simple: customers order from kiosks and can take their food to a number of seating areas, from open-air counter seats to tables and booths with built-in fire pits. My first thought when picturing a food hall is Boston’s Quincy Market – but this is far better. While Quincy Market’s 40-odd food choices can be vast and confounding, Boon Street is accessible, friendly, and pleasant.
No strangers to hospitality development, the Holmeses envisioned a rebuild that would honor the structure of the building but breathe new life into it, and a concept that would appeal to the varying demographics of Narragansett – young and old, local and visitor, child and URI student.
The food is addictingly good. The Rodeo Burger gives off a “how am I going to get my mouth around that?” vibe. A side of fries costs extra, but they are thin and crispy and totally worth it. I also tried the Chicken Tinga Tacos, which are delightfully smokey, highlighted by a chunky guacamole that’s full of flavor. The ramen bowls are huge, and you can add meat or veggies of your choice for a few extra dollars, and all the deli sandwiches are substantial and creative.
But the most amazing menu item would have to be the lobster roll. Putting one on your menu when you’re new and located in the epicenter of southern New England is a bold move, but this impressive offering is overflowing with tail and claw meat dressed in a tiny bit of mayo, served on a buttered and grilled roll.
Monica’s parents decided to split one when they finished off the oysters. When her dad brought it outside and asked if she’d like to try a bite, she answered, “Yeah, because it’s pretty and pink.” She took a tiny bite and smiled, forgetting about cornhole for the rest of the evening.
145 Boon Street, Narragansett
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