Most chefs have their recipes down pat. this is true for John Martin, of Johnny Angels Clam Shack in Charlestown, and his recipe for New England clam chowder. “I like to make a chowder you can stand a spoon up in,” he says. “I love the chowder. I don’t get sick of that. It’s one of the few things I still eat that I make!”
The recipe is meant to be done by feel, for home cooks who know when their meal is done simply by smelling it or hearing it. As Julia Child once said, “cooking is like love; it should be entered into with abandon or not at all.” She also said, “cooking well doesn’t mean cooking fancy.” Case in point: John’s New England clam chowder recipe.
Johnny Angels New England Clam Chowder
• In a large, heavy bottomed pot, render out some salt pork in a little olive oil.
• Once rendered, pull out salt pork and add in diced celery and onions. Sweat them for 5-10 minutes.
• Add in enough clam juice to cover all the vegetables (and then some), diced red bliss potatoes, black pepper and bay leaves. Let that simmer for 20 minutes or until potatoes are cooked through – you can lightly mash some potatoes against the side of the pot to release the starch and give it a thicker consistency.
• In a separate pan, make a light roux of flour and butter.
• Add heavy cream, milk or half and half to the clam juice, depending on your preference. Let that warm through, then add the roux. Simmer until it is hot and at the desired thickness.
• Once the desired thickness is achieved, add in some fresh chopped parsley and dill, salt (to taste) and clams (best way is to use fresh clams right out of the shell).
• Turn off the heat and serve to hungry guests!
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