Azure Cygler’s Sugar Kelp is Making Waves in Narragansett Bay

March is when many local farms start encouraging folks to sign up for CSAs, promising heaps of tomatoes, cucumbers, corn, and more throughout spring and summer, but while fields remain dormant during Rhode Island winters, this time of year is growing season for an unlikely crop – one that you can’t see growing without hopping on a kayak: sugar kelp.

This native species, which grows naturally in southern Rhode Island waters, is also a “living dinosaur” according to Narragansett-based ocean farmer Azure Cygler, explaining that a wide variety of seaweeds, or macroalgae, have been cultivated for thousands of years and existed for eons. “These marine plants are photosynthetic beings that create more O2 (oxygen) than land-based plants collectively. It’s a super powerful notion!” she says. Sugar kelp is the only species allowed to be grown in RI – “It’s a beautiful, honey-colored, lasagna-noodle shaped blade that attaches in the wild to rocks with a holdfast.”

Cygler’s love for this fascinating crop was fostered over years of working as a commercial fisherman, researcher, and coastal citizen. She explains that she made a “career chiropractic adjustment” in 2020 to pursue her entrepreneurial venture, Rhody Wild Sea Gardens, motivated by the innovative and passionate work of ocean farmers.

“My vision is to contribute to the growing regenerative ocean farming sector in Rhode Island in a way that is intentionally sustainable, builds community partnerships, heals our wounded oceans, and creates a safe and engaging space for youth to learn about possible career paths,” she states.

What does this look like? In a practical sense, it’s strings of “kelp babies” suspended on growlines, which are anchored to the seabed of Narragansett Bay. “As it grows, those holdfasts reach from that string to the growline and hang on as the blades grow long and gorgeous,” Cygler explains. She plants during autumn, and goes out on her kayak during the winter to monitor their progress. “In the spring, we harvest by pulling the lines and cutting the kelp off.”

Along with being a consumable and nutritious crop – packed with zinc, iron, magnesium, and omegas – the act of growing kelp nourishes one of our most vital natural resources: the ocean. Cygler explains that it absorbs excess nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus, reduces acidity in the surrounding water, offers habitat sanctuary for other species, and even creates coastal buffers from storms – a veritable sustainability supercrop.

“I know I’ve drunk the kelp-colored Kool-Aid, but it really is an epic organism,” insists Cygler, which is why the other facets of her mission are research and education. Passionate about contributing to a collective knowledge-base, she has built meaningful, multi-year data sets with the help of researchers and the state to learn more about the ecosystem services provided by sugar kelp and oyster farming at a local level. And with Ocean Hour Farm, she’s collected data on the benefits of feeding sugar kelp to livestock and its uses as a soil amendment for crops. Cygler teaches skills of the trade to young aquaculture enthusiasts, and in April, by appointment, guests can go out on the water with her to see it growing firsthand and sample kelp “fresh off the line.”

While Rhody Wild Sea Gardens doesn’t sell kelp to eat, Cygler shares her favorite way to prepare her harvests. “I dry kelp from my farm overnight on my windowsill – it makes the house smell like a spring beach day! Then I crunch it up into a cute little mason jar and leave it on my kitchen table by the salt and pepper shaker to remind me that anything I would add salt and pepper to, I can add kelp.” Scrambled eggs, avocado toast, soups, and stir-fries are just a few dishes improved by its savory umami yet slightly sweet flavor.

Cygler has seen more interest in sugar kelp over the years among ocean farmers but also the general public, as more people seek practices that are good for the planet. “It’s easy to love,” she says. “I hope my 14-year-old and seven-year-old will want to take the farm and run with it in the future, and that they can look back and see we did a little something for our local ocean space!”

For dried kelp to use in home gardens, or to request a taste fresh from the boat, message Cygler on Instagram: @rhodykelp. Learn more about tours and opportunities at RhodyWildSeaGardens.com.