Comfort Food Dining at Clean Plate

Clean Plate opened in November, hidden at the quieter southern end of South Water Street. Before owners Lauren and Susan set their sights on Providence, they ran restaurants outside of Boston and in upstate New York.

Before my first meal at Clean Plate, the name reminded me of “clean” eating and I thought it might have a health food bent. Instead, the menu leans more towards comfort food and the clean plate refers to diners’ penchant to eat every last bite.

The split-level space is painted in warm oranges and yellows and accented with mixed natural woods. A long bar spans the length of the lower level, and upstairs has several tables. The layout is open, allowing diners on the upper level to look down at the bar and outside to the Providence river. Breakfast and lunch are served every day except Monday, with brunch on weekends and dinner Thursday through Saturday.

We started with two appetizers. The Chopped Liver with Bagel Chips and Cucumbers ($8) arrived with triangles of Lebanese bread instead. The bread was so good; this was a welcome substitution. Clean Plate’s Lebanese bread is made in house on the grill and was warm, soft, with just the right sprinkle of coarse salt. A large scoop of cold chopped liver, spreadable and similar to paté, seemed like a huge portion but we liked it enough to finish. The Hummus and Kisir ($8) also featured the grilled Lebanese bread and cucumbers. I can be picky about hummus but this one was impressive, lemony and bright with a bit of texture. Kisir is a dish of bulgur wheat, a grain about half the size of rice, with tomato and herbs. It had a deep, smoky flavor that beautifully contrasted with the tanginess of the hummus. With the appetizers, I enjoyed a Winter Sangria ($8.50), with apples, oranges and cinnamon. The fruit flavor came through but the drink was not overly sweet, which I appreciated.

My husband was excited about the “Uncle Herman,” the pastrami potato knish, because we’ve rarely seen a knish grace a Rhode Island menu and we wanted to try the house-made pastrami. Unfortunately, the kitchen was sold out, but no matter, it was a good excuse to try the burger ($11). Clean Plate’s burger features their “signature blend of short rib, brisket, chuck burger with Fontina and onion strings.” The meat had a good flavor and the toppings were piled high. With the burger, he had Foolproof’s La Ferme Urbaine ($5), a great local addition to the draught list. Foolproof Brewing is located just six miles away in Pawtucket; La Ferme Urbaine is their much loved saison-style farmhouse ale.

I ordered the Korean fried chicken thigh with sweet and spicy honey mustard on a roll ($8). A huge chicken thigh was breaded and fried, served on the same fluffy, buttery brioche bun as the burger. The breading was thick, tasty and freshly fried. I didn’t taste much of the spicy honey mustard, but the chicken and bun were flavorful. It’s refreshing to see a chicken thigh in a sandwich in place of the ubiquitous breast. My sandwich was enormous, even taller than the burger, and might have been difficult for a small-jawed diner to tackle. A glass of the house Chardonnay ($7.50) paired nicely.

Both the burger and sandwich were served with coleslaw and perfectly seasoned shoestring fries. The contrast between our gargantuan sandwiches and miniscule fries injected a little humor into the plate and made me feel like a mid-transformation Alice.

For dessert, we shared a slice of Peanut Butter Pie ($7). The peanut butter mousse was fluffy and light but had a rich flavor. With dessert, my husband had the WaterFire Martini ($10), a spicy chocolate martini. Despite the description, it wasn’t too spicy. The drink’s name reminded me that this new restaurant will be a stealthy waterfront meeting spot for WaterFire visitors in the spring when all the usual bars and restaurants are packed.

Clean Plate’s menu and interior are casual, a notch above an upscale deli or cafe. Though there’s a cocktail menu and full bar, dinner doesn’t seem like a focus yet. The menu is the same for dinner and lunch, and luckily, the prices are too. If you go for dinner, expect more casual surroundings, which may be more appropriate for a friendly gathering with good conversation than a really romantic date. The sunny colors will brighten your mood and seem especially appropriate for a happy brunch with friends.

Clean Plate
345 South Water Street
621-8888