Michael Labonte is the chef and owner at the Station House in West Kingston. He’s taken his experience in fine dining to this classic American-style diner.
What sets The Station House apart from other breakfast restaurants?
Well to start, I’m a culinary grad. Most breakfast places are different in that they’re filled with short order cooks. I really strive to use fresh products and deliver the best food that I can. I make just about everything we serve from scratch, and I’m constantly taking input from my customers and employees so that I can adjust my food to make it better.
How did you get started cooking?
When I was about 14, I started working at a restaurant in Newport washing dishes, and I was really interested in what was going on in the kitchen. Eventually I started helping out on the line, and over time I started doing more and more. The chef took me under his wing and it was a great experience.
Did you work in many restaurants before opening Station House?
Once I got out of college, the chef from the restaurant I worked at in Newport helped me get into his friends restaurant in Maine. After that, I hopped around the country a bit. I took a trip to the West Coast and to Florida before coming back to work around Providence. Throughout my career, I never started working at a restaurant because they needed help. I would only work somewhere because I knew that they had a great chef and I could learn something from being there. It’s a lot different here in West Kingston, and it took me a few years to get it right.
What made you want to open a breakfast and lunch restaurant?
I was starting to get a little older, and as I entered my 30s, I was getting sick of getting out of work at two in the morning. I wanted to have a more complete life, so I decided to open a breakfast and lunch restaurant that would allow me to work earlier hours.
Has it affected your life the way you wanted it to?
Yes and no. I strive to do a lot,and I find myself always working on a new project, whether that be renovating, painting,making specials, tweaking the menu or just making sure everything is beauti- ful and clean. I want to be proud of my restaurant and I want it to stand apart from other restaurants in the area, so I still spend most of my time working on something related to the restaurant.
What is different about working at The Station House versus other restaurants?
When I first came here, I was used to working in upscale restaurants with cre- ative, cutting-edge food, and I did some of that on my menu, but the people here weren’t looking for that stuff, and it scared them away. I had to take a step back and simplify things a little bit. In the past, I may have put 12 ingredients in a salad, and now I’ll put five. People here really appreciate that because I take my time with those five ingredients and pay attention to the little details. I take pride in the food I put out, and that’s what makes me happy.
What is your favorite item on your menu?
I do my own clam chowder, and I’m very proud of it. I haven’t yet participated in the chowder cook-off, but I think that it would stand up. I’ve worked in a few restaurants that have won first place, and I’ve taken a lot of tips and tricks with me.
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