THE CHEF
Anthony Tarro, Siena Cucina-Enoteca, East Greenwich
A native Rhode Islander, Tarro started working in kitchens at age 16. He graduated from Rhode Island School of Design’s culinary program, Johnson & Wales University and the regional cooking school of Emilia-Romagna in Italy. After working for years in local kitchens, Tarro opened Siena Restaurant on Federal Hill in Providence with his brother Christopher in 2004. Together they went on to open Siena Cucina-Enoteca in East Greenwich, and they plan to open a third Siena in Smithfield in early 2013. Chef Tarro and the Siena restaurants have won many awards. Siena Cucina Enoteca: 5600 Post Road, East Greenwich. 885-8850. www.sienari.com
THE FARM
Belmont Market, Wakefield
The key ingredient here – sugar pumpkin – is from Belmont Market in Wakefield. Rather than deal with individual farms, Chef Tarro prefers to deal strictly with Belmont, a market that receives fresh fruit and produce from all over the world as well as their “own backyard.” Whenever in season, you will find Belmont’s shelves stocked with fruits and vegetables from many Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut farms. For years, Belmont has enjoyed a close relationship with its growers and believes in supporting the area’s farms. 600 Kingstown Road, Wakefield. 783-4656, www.belmontmarket.com
THE RECIPE
Roasted Pumpkin Tortellacci with Pancetta and Chestnut Cream Sauce
To make the tortellacci:
1 1/2 lbs egg pasta dough (see recipe)
3 c roasted pumpkin puree (see recipe)
2 whole large eggs
All-purpose flour, as needed
Note: Most pasta machines for home use are about five and a half inches wide. This recipe uses pasta sheets that will be cut into five inch squares. Store-bought pasta may be substituted, but there’s nothing like making it from scratch.
Lay the egg pasta dough sheets onto a lightly floured work surface. Carefully lay one sheet onto top of the other. Measure the width of the dough to five inches, and square off both sides of the dough. Brush any excess flour off of each sheet of pasta, then cut into five inch squares.
In a small bowl, beat the eggs. Brush each pasta square with the egg wash. Place two tbsps of the roasted pumpkin puree in the center of each square. Fold the dough over the filling to form a triangular shape. Gently press all the pasta together, without moving the fillings. Take the two opposite corners and bring them together and pinch them firmly. Roll back the top, loosen the corner to form a neckerchief shape.
Line the raw tortellacci on a parchment-lined pan. Use a little flour and/or semolina flour on the paper to avoid sticking. Refrigerate, or freeze, until ready to cook. Makes 24 pieces.
To make two servings of this dish:
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 c diced pancetta (buy pre-sliced pancetta from a market and then dice)
1/2 c Marsala wine
1 c heavy cream
2 tbsps chestnut puree (sold at gourmet food markets)
2 tbsps unsalted butter
8 roasted pumpkin tortellacci
2 quarts lightly salted, boiling water
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, as needed
Fresh sage leaves, pan fried (optional)
In a large sauté pan, heat the oil and pancetta over medium heat. Cook the pancetta until golden brown. Add the Marsala wine, and reduce by half its original volume. Add the cream, chestnut puree and butter. Bring to a quick boil, then reduce to a simmer until slightly thickened. Turn off the sauce and reserve.
Place the pumpkin tortellacci into the boiling water, and allow the pasta to cook at a simmer until they float. Do not boil the pasta or it may lose its filling. Once cooked, lift the pasta out of the boiling water, drain and place into the sauté pan. Avoid adding excess water to the sauté pan. Bring the sauce to a quick boil, coating the pasta as it cooks.
Transfer the tortellacci to a serving dish, and top with the remaining sauce. Garnish with grated cheese and fresh pan-fried sage leaves.
Egg Pasta Dough
3 1/2 c double “0” or all-purpose flour
1 tbsp kosher salt
12 egg yolks (from large eggs)
2 whole large eggs
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp whole milk
In a large bowl, mix the flour and salt together. Form a well in the middle of the flour, and add the eggs, oil and milk. Using a fork, mix the ingredients until the dough comes together.
Transfer the dough onto a floured work surface, and begin to knead the dough by hand by folding the dough in half, pressing the dough, and giving the dough a quarter turn. Repeat the kneading process until the dough is smooth and slightly elastic. (This will take approximately eight minutes.) Note: The dough may be made in a food processor following the manufacturer’s instructions. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Cut the dough into two pieces, and press each piece flat so that it can go through a pasta press or machine. If you do not have a pasta press or machine, a rolling pin can be used.
Dust the dough an adequate amount of flour to prevent sticking. Send the dough through the pasta machine until a desired thickness is achieved (1/8 inch is recommended.) Lay the pasta sheets onto a lightly floured work surface. Follow the recipe instructions for filling the pumpkin tortellacci.
Roasted Pumpkin Puree
1 fresh sugar pumpkin, 4-5 lbs
4 tbsp unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 tbsp Roast Pumpkin Spice Mix (see recipe)
8 sprigs fresh sage leaves
Preheat a conventional oven to 350 degrees. Wash the pumpkin thoroughly. Carefully cut the stem off the pumpkin. Cut the pumpkin in half, and scoop out all the seeds and loose pulp. Cut each half into four equal wedges. Arrange the pumpkin (skin side down) in a baking dish, or several dishes if necessary.
Melt the butter and brush over each wedge. Season each wedge with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the spice mix evenly over the pumpkin. Place one sprig of sage onto each piece of pumpkin. Place the baking dish in the middle of the preheated oven, and bake for two hours or until the pumpkin is fork tender. Allow the pumpkin to cool.
Remove the sage and discard. Carefully scrape the pumpkin pulp away from the skin. Do not use any of the hard, crispy parts. Only reserve the softer pulp. In a food processor, puree the pumpkin until smooth. Season with salt and pepper if necessary and reserve, refrigerated, until needed. Makes approximately four cups.
Roasted Pumpkin Spice Mix
1/3 c light brown sugar
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp dry ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground cloves
Mix all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Transfer to an appropriate sized container. Spice mix may be stored, unrefrigerated, for up to two months. Makes two cups.
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